Chincheree! Beautiful and long lasting, chincherees are the perfect cut flower!
Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts
Thursday, 17 October 2013
Chim Chim Cher-ee Chincheree
What do you get when you mix Mary Poppins with an African lily?
Chincheree! Beautiful and long lasting, chincherees are the perfect cut flower!
Chincheree! Beautiful and long lasting, chincherees are the perfect cut flower!
Tuesday, 24 September 2013
Friday, 20 September 2013
Sweet Pea Heaven
Fresh from the market
A Friday night treat, Haigh's cardamom dark chocolate and a bunch of sweet peas. Happy weekend people!
Keep an eye out for Madame X..., to be launched this weekend!
A Friday night treat, Haigh's cardamom dark chocolate and a bunch of sweet peas. Happy weekend people!
Keep an eye out for Madame X..., to be launched this weekend!
Sunday, 8 September 2013
Pot Painting Tutorial
Putting some 1950s fun in your garden
You will need:
1 x pencil
1 x piece of paper
1 x dress-maker's measuring tape (or a piece of string and a retractable measuring tape)
1 x roll of masking tape
1 x calculator
1 x paint brush or mini-roller
2 x cans of paint, different colours
1 x round tapered pot; concrete, terracotta or fibreglass
Step 1
Choose a plain, smooth pot. Fibreglass is great because it is lightweight and smooth. Terracotta and concrete pots may be more problematic as they tend to leach moisture through the sides, which isn't good for paintwork.
In this case, I'm painting a terracotta pot because I couldn't find a fibreglass one, so I'll take my chances.
Step 2
You will need to seal the pot with an appropriate outdoor cement sealer. I used Bondall 'Pot and Ornament Sealer', and this is readily available from hardware stores.
Give the pot at least 2 coats of sealer, as recommended by the sealer manufacturer. Apply the sealer to the lip of the pot and to about 10cm down the inside rim.
Step 3
Choose your paint, in two colours. I have selected some left-over paint from when our house was done. An off-white and a light blue. The paint needs to be an outdoor paint, suitable for use on cement.
Use the lighter colour paint as your base. Paint the entire outside of the pot (you don't need to paint the base), including the lip and about 10cm into the inside of the pot. When you plant out the pot, you will still get to see the inside lip.
Two coats, at least.
Step 4
Ugh, the hard bit. This can be a very painful process, so be prepared. Don't do this bit when you're just about to go to work or when you're expected for lunch somewhere in half an hour. Tell everyone to just leave you alone for a good hour! Of course, you may be a mathematically inclined person, so this might be a cinch for you!
You need to plot the stripes. As a start, I should say that this is not an exact science. The stripes will not be perfectly regular, you will have all sorts of weirdness happening, but you need to remember that when the pot is finished and sitting in your garden, the overall impression is perfect! And I defy you to find any pot this glamorous in a shop!
So, here goes. Measuring the circumference of the top outside rim of the pot is difficult if you try wrapping a dress-makers measuring tape around it. So, I recommend just measuring the diameter of the pot, as best you can. With the measuring tape, stretch it across the top of the pot at the broadest part. Measure the distance between the outside rim of one side and the outside rim of the other side.
Multiply this amount by 3.14 and that will be your circumference. (This is where the calculator comes in unless you're a brainbox). Write this down.
Repeat this exercise by turning the pot upside down and measuring the bottom circumference. Write this down.
You need to determine how many stripes you want (and I mean stripes of both colour). I suggest being fairly generous with the width of the strip unless you really want to spend a lot of time painting narrow stripes. And make it an even number. Odd numbers will leave you with two stripes of the same colour next to each other.
I chose 10 stripes for this pot. To mark out where the stripes need to be, start with the top of the pot. Divide its circumference by the number of stripes you have. This will give you the distance between each edge of a stripe. The space between two marks is the width of your stripe.
If your pot has a seam, you are lucky, and you will find out why shortly. If not, it doesn't matter. Make a small mark with a pencil on the outer rim of the pot, where you want to start (if you have a seam, I'd start here). Then, you need to mark out each point on the pot. Using a measuring tape to do this can be tricky because it is hard to hold and mark at the same time, so I suggest just getting your piece of paper and folding it so one side is as long as the figure you have just worked out for the width of each stripe. Then, starting with your first mark, place the paper with one edge on that mark, and mark the point where the paper ends. Do this around the circumference of the top edge until you arrive back at the first mark. It may not be perfect! If you are quite a bit out, say by 2cm, you need to increase the width of each stripe by a couple of millimeters. This can be time-consuming and frustrating, but stick with it.
To repeat the process on the bottom, you need to make sure that you align one of the top marks with your first mark on the bottom. If you have a seam on the pot, you won't need to do this, just start the measuring on the bottom at the seam. Otherwise, using your measuring tape or string, start at your first mark and hold the tape or string so that it drops in a fairly straight line downwards. As best you can try to mark the bottom outside rim of the pot where the tape or string is. This will give you a fairly close alignment between the top and the bottom and hopefully, a straight stripe.
Then repeat the process of marking out the smaller circumference.
Step 5
It helps a bit to mark with an x which spaces you will be painting with your second colour.
Using the masking tape, you need to block out the stripes you do not intend to paint with your second colour. Start at the bottom. Allow a little of the tape to fold over onto the base of the pot. Align the edge of the tape to the left of one of the marks and draw the tape upwards to its partner mark on the top edge, making sure it is aligned to the left side of the mark. Moving towards the next mark to the right, repeat this, but align the tape to the right of both marks. In other words, the space you have marked with an x will be fully exposed, while the stripes either side of it will have the tape on.
Repeat this, moving to the right, for the remaining marks.
I suggest running your finger along the tape to ensure it has fully adhered to the pot. This will help ensure a crisp line when you paint.
Step 6
Paint the spaces you have masked off with your second colour. Don't rush it, be careful you don't paint over the masking tape and onto one of the base colour stripes. It's no big deal if you do, as you can touch it up afterwards, but it only adds to the amount of time and effort you spend on this.
Two coats, at least.
Step 7
The fun bit. Gently remove the masking tape. Your pot is now beautiful and ready to plant!
These pots look fantastic planted out with bright annuals or geraniums. We planted a small lemon tree in ours, but the options are endless! Enjoy!
You will need:
1 x pencil
1 x piece of paper
1 x dress-maker's measuring tape (or a piece of string and a retractable measuring tape)
1 x roll of masking tape
1 x calculator
1 x paint brush or mini-roller
2 x cans of paint, different colours
1 x round tapered pot; concrete, terracotta or fibreglass
Step 1
Choose a plain, smooth pot. Fibreglass is great because it is lightweight and smooth. Terracotta and concrete pots may be more problematic as they tend to leach moisture through the sides, which isn't good for paintwork.
In this case, I'm painting a terracotta pot because I couldn't find a fibreglass one, so I'll take my chances.
Step 2
You will need to seal the pot with an appropriate outdoor cement sealer. I used Bondall 'Pot and Ornament Sealer', and this is readily available from hardware stores.
Give the pot at least 2 coats of sealer, as recommended by the sealer manufacturer. Apply the sealer to the lip of the pot and to about 10cm down the inside rim.
Step 3
Choose your paint, in two colours. I have selected some left-over paint from when our house was done. An off-white and a light blue. The paint needs to be an outdoor paint, suitable for use on cement.
Use the lighter colour paint as your base. Paint the entire outside of the pot (you don't need to paint the base), including the lip and about 10cm into the inside of the pot. When you plant out the pot, you will still get to see the inside lip.
Two coats, at least.
Step 4
Ugh, the hard bit. This can be a very painful process, so be prepared. Don't do this bit when you're just about to go to work or when you're expected for lunch somewhere in half an hour. Tell everyone to just leave you alone for a good hour! Of course, you may be a mathematically inclined person, so this might be a cinch for you!
You need to plot the stripes. As a start, I should say that this is not an exact science. The stripes will not be perfectly regular, you will have all sorts of weirdness happening, but you need to remember that when the pot is finished and sitting in your garden, the overall impression is perfect! And I defy you to find any pot this glamorous in a shop!
So, here goes. Measuring the circumference of the top outside rim of the pot is difficult if you try wrapping a dress-makers measuring tape around it. So, I recommend just measuring the diameter of the pot, as best you can. With the measuring tape, stretch it across the top of the pot at the broadest part. Measure the distance between the outside rim of one side and the outside rim of the other side.
Multiply this amount by 3.14 and that will be your circumference. (This is where the calculator comes in unless you're a brainbox). Write this down.
Repeat this exercise by turning the pot upside down and measuring the bottom circumference. Write this down.
You need to determine how many stripes you want (and I mean stripes of both colour). I suggest being fairly generous with the width of the strip unless you really want to spend a lot of time painting narrow stripes. And make it an even number. Odd numbers will leave you with two stripes of the same colour next to each other.
I chose 10 stripes for this pot. To mark out where the stripes need to be, start with the top of the pot. Divide its circumference by the number of stripes you have. This will give you the distance between each edge of a stripe. The space between two marks is the width of your stripe.
If your pot has a seam, you are lucky, and you will find out why shortly. If not, it doesn't matter. Make a small mark with a pencil on the outer rim of the pot, where you want to start (if you have a seam, I'd start here). Then, you need to mark out each point on the pot. Using a measuring tape to do this can be tricky because it is hard to hold and mark at the same time, so I suggest just getting your piece of paper and folding it so one side is as long as the figure you have just worked out for the width of each stripe. Then, starting with your first mark, place the paper with one edge on that mark, and mark the point where the paper ends. Do this around the circumference of the top edge until you arrive back at the first mark. It may not be perfect! If you are quite a bit out, say by 2cm, you need to increase the width of each stripe by a couple of millimeters. This can be time-consuming and frustrating, but stick with it.
To repeat the process on the bottom, you need to make sure that you align one of the top marks with your first mark on the bottom. If you have a seam on the pot, you won't need to do this, just start the measuring on the bottom at the seam. Otherwise, using your measuring tape or string, start at your first mark and hold the tape or string so that it drops in a fairly straight line downwards. As best you can try to mark the bottom outside rim of the pot where the tape or string is. This will give you a fairly close alignment between the top and the bottom and hopefully, a straight stripe.
Then repeat the process of marking out the smaller circumference.
Step 5
It helps a bit to mark with an x which spaces you will be painting with your second colour.
Using the masking tape, you need to block out the stripes you do not intend to paint with your second colour. Start at the bottom. Allow a little of the tape to fold over onto the base of the pot. Align the edge of the tape to the left of one of the marks and draw the tape upwards to its partner mark on the top edge, making sure it is aligned to the left side of the mark. Moving towards the next mark to the right, repeat this, but align the tape to the right of both marks. In other words, the space you have marked with an x will be fully exposed, while the stripes either side of it will have the tape on.
Repeat this, moving to the right, for the remaining marks.
I suggest running your finger along the tape to ensure it has fully adhered to the pot. This will help ensure a crisp line when you paint.
Step 6
Paint the spaces you have masked off with your second colour. Don't rush it, be careful you don't paint over the masking tape and onto one of the base colour stripes. It's no big deal if you do, as you can touch it up afterwards, but it only adds to the amount of time and effort you spend on this.
Two coats, at least.
Step 7
The fun bit. Gently remove the masking tape. Your pot is now beautiful and ready to plant!
These pots look fantastic planted out with bright annuals or geraniums. We planted a small lemon tree in ours, but the options are endless! Enjoy!
Sunday, 1 September 2013
Saturday, 24 August 2013
The First Blossom, and Friends
Hurrah for Spring!
Today I found the first blossom on the plum trees. That's it; spring is here.
Today I found the first blossom on the plum trees. That's it; spring is here.
Sunday, 23 June 2013
Photo Bee
Winter Wonderland
Spent a lovely afternoon taking snaps in the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. A nice way to spend a wintery Sunday afternoon. I can't make soap all the time you know!
Spent a lovely afternoon taking snaps in the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. A nice way to spend a wintery Sunday afternoon. I can't make soap all the time you know!
Thursday, 28 February 2013
The Last Day of Summer
While there will still be warm weather ahead, the edge has been taken off the heat now. The days feel shorter and, sometimes, mistier. While autumn is one of my favourite seasons, it is sad to see summer fading. Sad in a melancholy way. And don't we love a little bit of melancholy?!
Here is our (newly mown) garden in the last rays of summer:
A bit of Harinezumi 2+++ camera madness. Speaking of which, look at that edging! I'll be out there this weekend with a pair of lawn clippers, or at least, someone will be...
Farewell summer!
While there will still be warm weather ahead, the edge has been taken off the heat now. The days feel shorter and, sometimes, mistier. While autumn is one of my favourite seasons, it is sad to see summer fading. Sad in a melancholy way. And don't we love a little bit of melancholy?!
Here is our (newly mown) garden in the last rays of summer:
A bit of Harinezumi 2+++ camera madness. Speaking of which, look at that edging! I'll be out there this weekend with a pair of lawn clippers, or at least, someone will be...
Farewell summer!
Sunday, 24 February 2013
Experiment
The hot weather has killed off some of the grass in the garden. If we don't get to it with a hose soon enough, that is what happens! Of course, it saddens me to lose the grass because I'd rather it be lush and green, but when I turn the sprinklers on late at night or early in the morning, the dead grass offers up a surprising treat. The damp air wafts up and brings with it the subtle scent of hay. It's sweet and green but smokey too. It lasts a few seconds before the smell of the hot cement coming into contact with water takes over.
So today I have experimented with some of the essential oils I have left. I want to suggest that green, smokey smell and put it into a soap. To start, the soap is made with lush olive oil and superfatted with meadowfoam seed oil and castor oil. I love this combination of oils because of the extra smooth feel they give to the soap. Not to mention the skin nourishing qualities, of course.
The soap is currently wrapped up, doing its soapy thing, so tomorrow I will be able to have a look and see if it has worked. And the essential oils I have used? Vetiver and cade. Both are pretty strong, so I pulled back with the amount I added to the soap. Time will tell if I have been too cautious. I'll post more about the soap when I cut it in the next day or two.
The hot weather has killed off some of the grass in the garden. If we don't get to it with a hose soon enough, that is what happens! Of course, it saddens me to lose the grass because I'd rather it be lush and green, but when I turn the sprinklers on late at night or early in the morning, the dead grass offers up a surprising treat. The damp air wafts up and brings with it the subtle scent of hay. It's sweet and green but smokey too. It lasts a few seconds before the smell of the hot cement coming into contact with water takes over.
So today I have experimented with some of the essential oils I have left. I want to suggest that green, smokey smell and put it into a soap. To start, the soap is made with lush olive oil and superfatted with meadowfoam seed oil and castor oil. I love this combination of oils because of the extra smooth feel they give to the soap. Not to mention the skin nourishing qualities, of course.
Some of the oils getting ready to have some soap fun.
The soap is currently wrapped up, doing its soapy thing, so tomorrow I will be able to have a look and see if it has worked. And the essential oils I have used? Vetiver and cade. Both are pretty strong, so I pulled back with the amount I added to the soap. Time will tell if I have been too cautious. I'll post more about the soap when I cut it in the next day or two.
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