Junk shop find
(Extracts from 'Perfumes', a catalogue published by the Societe
Chimique des Usines du Rhone, probably in the early 1920s. From my
private collection.)
I love reading the 'Perfumes' catalogue. It contains a descriptive
list of a wide range of synthetic perfumes, their benefits over natural
essential oils (usually cost and potency), a few recipes for perfumes
and a series of photographs of the factories that produced the
chemicals. It's full of possibilities!
I've been thinking for some time about making my own perfumes. I am
ambivalent about synthetic perfumes like the ones listed in the
catalogue. On the one hand, I would prefer to avoid the use of
synthetic chemicals as I generally prefer keeping things as natural as
possible. I certainly stick to natural ingredients in the soaps I make.
But I'm also aware of the advantages of using alternatives to natural
products, particularly where there might be a dwindling or limited
supply (like rosewood essential oil).
I've tried researching various essential oils to check whether the
production of the oils are in any way detrimental to either the
environment or the people who live near the resource. The more
expensive oils seem to be obtained from specifically grown crops.
Otherwise, it might be wise if I'm concerned about a particular oil to
at least try to source an organic version, or one that is locally
produced.
In any event, I still find the catalogue inspiring; it's like looking
in a well illustrated cook book that makes you rush out and buy far too
many vegetables. And here's something else I find inspiring - a Holga pic of begonias in glorious late summer colours:
As a second thought, below is an extract from 'Perfume' of a perfume recipe for 'Bouquet of Moss Rose':
Firstly, you need to make 'rose spirit' as follows;
"Grain spirit of 94% strength without odour or flavour is reduced
to 70% strength by adding Rose water, and then dissolving Rhodinol in
this alcohol in the following proportions:
Rhodinol I 20gr
Alcohol 70% 1 litre."
This is the 'rose spirit'. So, the recipe is:
"Rose Spirit.....................660cc
Extract of Orange flowers....240cc
Tincture of Ambergris........30cc
Tincture of Musk..............25cc
Tincture of Vanilla.............45cc
These ingredients are mixed, shaken and left for 15 days in a well
closed bottle at a temperature of 25 degrees to 30 degrees C; it is
then allowed to cool, filtered and put into bottles for sale."
I am pleased to say that Shanghai Lil and The Scarlet Fez perfumes will be all-natural and vegan!
A Winter's Day - Love Lies Bleeding
On this cold winter's day, have I been lying on the couch under a blanket eating crumpets and reading Tennyson? No! I've been making another batch of what I can now call an old time favourite - Love Lies Bleeding.
In making this soap, I have not been content with using just olive oil, I have added olive pomace. Olive pomace is a low-grade olive oil in terms of cooking, but in terms of soap-making, it means a concentrated boost of olive goodness. Olive is a wonderful oil for soaps, and I always use it as a big part of any soap mixture. It produces a firm bar of soap, which makes it better value, and is very gentle on your skin.
I have also used meadowfoam seed oil. The skin loves this oil as it is highly emollient, leaving your skin moisturised. Apricot kernal oil is rich with vitamins E and A and matches your skin's sebum, meaning your skin will drink it in! Topping off this trilogy of extra-luxurious oils is rosehip oil, bursting with vitamin C (though, to be fair, vitamin C isn't much of a stayer, so it's not likely you'll see much of this once it is in a soap!), anti-oxidants and omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids - in other words, one of the best skin friendly oils you're likely to come across!
I've used mineral colourings, as usual, in this batch; the swirl being a rich earthy red. Scented with rose, rose geranium and geranium essential oils, the soap is lively, sweet and, I must say, thoroughly romantic. This is a great skin-conditioning soap. Here are some sneak previews for you - the colouring and essential oils, the soap mix, the poured soap and a Holga photograph of roses to put you in the mood!
Holiday snaps
I was fortunate enough over the Christmas break to visit the beautiful coastline of north New South Wales with my partner. As usual, I took a bunch of cameras with me, including the Harinezumi and my trusty old Holga. I had purchased a new roll of film for the trip, Kodak Ektar 100. This film is touted as having fine grain and high saturation, which is great, but I was using it for the Holga - the unpredictable photobeast. So, who knows what would happen.
I have just got the photos developed and nearly every one of them is a dud! Completely washed out, with brown staining on the top and bottom of the negatives. I know it was warm up there, but I've taken the Holga out for a walk in the deserts of Arabia (ie, downtown Dubai) and the prints were fine despite the heat exposure. So, I'm at a loss to know what has caused this. I guess the roll was exposed to light somehow. But that's life with film! Here is one print I like, looking like a hand-tinted early Kodak; the lighthouse at Byron Bay.